An article I wrote for the Jewellery History Society’s journal can be found in this blog entry – ‘The 1903 Costume Ball at the Winter Palace, St Petersburg’.


I contributed to the 2-volume ‘Encyclopedia of National Dress: traditional clothing around the world’, published in the USA in April 2013 by AB-CLIO/Greenwood. My chapters were on: Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania; Poland; the semi-autonomous Russian Republics (in the Volga region, the Caucasus, Karelia & Siberia); and Slovenia.


My major project in recent years has been to contribute several chapters to the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress & Fashion and to act as Assistant Editor for Volume 9 of this 10-volume work.  I worked closely with the editor, Dr Djurdja Bartlett, and we were the perfect team as Djurdja concentrated on the chapters about urban and fashionable dress, and my focus was on ethnic dress (ie peasant/folk dress).

“Volume 9: East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus. Editor: Djurdja Bartlett, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK.  Assistant Editor: Pamela Smith, Independent Consultant on Russian Arts and Culture”



“Published in July 2010 in print – and online within the Berg Fashion Library – the new 10-volume Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion is the first single reference work to explore all aspects of dress and fashion globally, from pre-history to the present day.

Editor-in-Chief: Joanne B. Eicher, Regents Professor Emerita, University of Minnesota, USA

Winner of the 2011 Dartmouth Medal for outstanding reference (awarded by the American Library Association)

The Oxford University Press Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, along with the online Berg Fashion Library, was selected for its extensive and outstanding multidisciplinary coverage of dress, fashion and its impact on society. The scholarship of the 10-volume encyclopedia is complemented and updated by the database’s content, including e-books, colour images, and articles. Free 30 day trials are available for the Berg Fashion Library, those interested should contact freetrials@oup.com.”

The chapters I wrote for the Encyclopedia were on:

Geography and Climate: East Central Europe, the Baltic Countries, Russia and the Caucasus

Embroidery in East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus

Jewish Dress

Russia: Ethnic Dress

Russian Cotton Prints from Ivanovo and Vladimir



Over the years I have contributed articles, book and exhibition reviews to various publications, including:

Embroidery magazine

  • Russian Costume Design. Spring 1988
  • Contemporary Textile Art in Russia. Summer 1992
  • In Search of Russian Drawn Ground. Autumn 1993
  • Ritual in the Making. November/December 2008
  • The Mayor and the Firebird (about textiles of the Russian Arts & Crafts movement, and the collection at the Bankfield Museum, Halifax, West Yorkshire). July/August 2009
  • Exhibition review of ‘Grace Kelly: Style Icon’ at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London. September/October 2010
  • Exhibition review of ‘Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes’ at the V & A. November/December 2010
  • Exhibition review of ‘Imperial Chinese Robes from the Forbidden City’ at the V & A. March/April 2011

Selvedge magazine

  • ‘Goodwill to All Comrades – politically correct winter celebrations in Russia’. Issue 14 – 2004
  • ‘The People’s Friend’ (about the global reach of the Singer sewing machine company). Issue 27 – March/April 2009

Теория Моды: Одежда Тело Культура (Fashion Theory: Dress, Body, Culture) – journal published in Moscow

  • 2009 – present: reviews of several London exhibitions, including ‘Magnificence of the Tsars’, ‘Grace Kelly’, ‘Diaghilev’ and ‘The Cult of Beauty’, all at the V&A

I copy-edited and prepared for publication the text of ‘Women and the Making of Built Space in England, 1870-1950′, ed: Elizabeth Darling & Lesley Whitworth. Publ. Ashgate 2007